I’ve already visited several ski areas this season and enjoyed some wonderful runs and absolutely dreamlike days on the slopes. But there’s one thing I haven’t managed yet: I haven’t been to Kaunertaler Gletscher this winter. And yet this small glacier ski area is one of my favorites in Austria.
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The descent into Switzerland is long. And empty. And beautiful. That means a clear run. My thighs are making themselves known. I ignore them. It's just too beautiful right now, I'm completely in the flow, and I definitely don't want to stop. I've already skied a few runs today, but this is definitely one of the longest descents on the Smugglers' Circuit. The long ski circuit takes you right through the entire Silvretta Arena Ischgl-Samnaun ski area.
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On our way from Munich to Obertauern, we pass green meadows and leafless trees. Winter can be a dreary season, especially when the fog hangs so low and steals a little more light from the world. When we reach Obertauern, it feels as though we’re entering another world. A world that already looks much brighter and more welcoming thanks to the snow. More snowflakes dance merrily in the air. Winter has already arrived here, and the forecast promises brilliant sunshine for the next day, too. Perfect conditions for the Tauernrunde.
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It snowed overnight. When I look out the window in the morning, the sidewalks and rooftops in Ischgl are dusted white. Up on the mountain, brilliant sunshine will be waiting for me along with the fresh snow. And as if that weren't enough, I'll meet members of Seeed around midday and look forward to the iconic Berlin band's concert that evening. Some ski days just have it all. It looks like this day in the Paznauntal is one of them.
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Nobody here. All that lies ahead of me is a freshly groomed ski slope. A snow groomer hums in the background. The final preparations for the start of the season are underway. I take a moment to enjoy the view of the surrounding snow-covered slopes. Then my binding clicks into place. I pull my ski goggles over my face. I'm ready. Ready for my first run down the slopes in Ischgl. And all before the official opening.
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The first snowfall is always somehow magical. When big snowflakes drift down from the sky, the world turns into a winter wonderland. Everything looks so peaceful and inviting, like the inside of one of those kitschy snow globes. And yes, it warms my heart. That same warmth spreads through me as we round one of the last bends before Tux and suddenly spot the first snow by the roadside. It’s back. Hello winter, we’re going to have a wonderful time together.
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I’m breathing hard. Putting one foot in front of the other. I can feel the effort, and I’m glad I can already see my goal. Just a few more metres separate me from the summit. I keep making my way up through the snow, concentrating on my movements. But I’m almost there. Soon I’ll be standing on Austria’s highest mountain. And in winter, at that.
Continue reading “2/101: A strenuous ski tour to Großglockner”
I take the very first gondola up into the Ischgl ski area. Around me are lift employees getting ready for their working day. I, on the other hand, have my ski helmet tucked under my arm and my skis dangling from the rack beneath the ceiling. Today I'll get to make my tracks in the snow before anyone else. Perfect. Glorious weather is forecast, and there will probably be plenty of skiers making the most of these conditions one last time. After all, it's one of the last chances of the season. Continue reading “Winter isn’t over yet: Skiing in Ischgl”
The birds have been singing a concert outside my window for some time now. The first rays of sunshine have already crept over the surrounding mountain peaks. There isn’t a single cloud in the sky. I throw back the covers, sit up and stretch on the edge of the bed. It’s half past six. There’s still time for a quick coffee, then the mountain is calling. Spring skiing in April is on the agenda.
Continue reading “Spring Awakening in Ski Arlberg”
Big snowflakes drift gently down from the sky. The road is white. We’re on our way to Kleinwalsertal. With every meter, the scenery gets more wintry. “The last stretch is uphill. I hope the car can make it through the snow,” Felix says, looking at me doubtfully. I cross my fingers in my mind and gaze outside again, my eyes fixed on the white flakes dancing in the darkness. We made it! We’re here.
Continue reading “Snow, Snow & Even More Snow in Oberstdorf-Kleinwalsertal”