The descent into Switzerland is long. And empty. And beautiful. That means a clear run. My thighs are making themselves known. I ignore them. It's just too beautiful right now, I'm completely in the flow, and I definitely don't want to stop. I've already skied a few runs today, but this is definitely one of the longest descents on the Smugglers' Circuit. The long ski circuit takes you right through the entire Silvretta Arena Ischgl-Samnaun ski area.
60 km through Ischgl and into Switzerland
I set off early from Ischgl. If I want to ski the Gold Smugglers' Circuit, I have more than 60 kilometers across the ski area ahead of me. There are also two shorter options, the Silver and Bronze circuits, but my competitive streak has kicked in a little. Besides, an early start is always a good idea: the slopes still have their corduroy grooming marks, and because many people like to sleep in a bit on a ski vacation, the runs are often quieter in the morning, too.
At Idalp, at least, the plan works. There are hardly any other skiers out yet. So I don't spend much longer studying the route description. We head down toward Paznauner Taja. We don't stop there just yet, though. First, we warm up with a little skiing.
That happens faster than expected. From Palinkopf via Piz Val Gronda to the Gampenbahn, I warm up nicely. But one of the longest descents on the circuit is still ahead of me: the long run down to Samnaun.
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Shopping or skiing?
I'm truly all alone on the slope. It's a dream. And the scenery is incredibly beautiful. In places, I ski right past steep mountainsides that end practically at the edge of the run. Amazing. My gaze follows the rock faces upward. And a little farther still. Behind them, even more snow-covered giants come into view. Incredible.
This also seems to be a real snow trap. Just before the ski resort, there's an especially deep blanket of snow. Everything looks so fluffy. A little like the winter wonderland you always wish for at Christmas. The first wood-clad façades I'm skiing straight toward fit right in. I only release my bindings when I'm standing right in the middle of the buildings.
The Duty-Free Run leads practically straight into the shopping arcade and certainly lives up to its name. All around me, the words "Tax Free," "Duty Free," and "duty-free shopping" appear in large letters. I shoulder my skis and walk a few meters past the shop windows. They have everything here. From watches to bags and ski goggles, right through to clothing and alcoholic drinks. It's practically begging for a shopping spree.
The view from the highest point
On the other hand, the ski area is calling too. I still have to finish the Smugglers' Circuit. That competitive streak… you know how it is. And the weather is far too beautiful to disappear into a shop. I'll save that for next time. So it's back up toward Alp Trida. There's a double-decker cable car going up here, by the way. I've never seen anything like it. Skiers can ride on two levels in the spacious cabin.
I don't spend nearly enough time in the Swiss part of the ski area. I've been to Ischgl so many times now, but only rarely made it over here. All the more reason to enjoy it now. Who knows when I'll make it across the border to our Swiss neighbors again? Luckily, my legs are a little more accustomed to this by now than they were at the painful start of the season a few weeks ago, and they're handling it all effortlessly. They'll get to rest again soon enough.
On the long ride up to the highest point in the ski area, in fact. The Greitspitze, at 2.872 m. A large summit cross marks the highest point near the slopes. I stand right beside it, looking toward Palinkopf on one side and Idalp on the other, before letting my gaze drift over the top lift station at Pardatschgrat. It looks so small from here.
A stop at the snowpark
It's always surprising how different the scale of a ski area looks from above. I'm really bad at picturing piste maps in my head. But from this "bird's-eye view," it all somehow makes sense. And I'm about to give the birds a run for their money.
My next stop is the snowpark above Idalp. There I meet Basti, who has quite a few jumping tricks up his sleeve. As a former gymnast, he has excellent body awareness, and he's even pulled off a backflip in his videos. I'll be jumping today too. But with a soft landing. Better safe than sorry. That's why I only jump where there's a large airbag set up behind the big kicker.
Ladies first. I go first. Pick up speed. Briefly wonder whether I'm going too fast. But before I can think about it any further, the jump catapults me into the air. I stretch my legs over my head. And land softly on my back. That's definitely not how I'd want to land without an airbag.
Basti follows. He crouches down again to go even faster. Then he takes off and spins 360 degrees. It looks waaaaay more elegant than my attempt. So cool!
Speed check on the new Velilleckbahn
But I'm not finished yet. The new Velilleckbahn takes me back up to Pardatschgrat. At 6 m/s, it's currently the fastest chairlift in the ski area.
The view from the chair is fantastic, too. I look down at the snow-covered Velillabfahrt. The run always strikes me as so idyllic and wintry. Even from up here on the lift, it makes me want to ski all over again.
But an even longer descent awaits us. We're going all the way down to the valley, clocking up a few more kilometers. Our legs are burning a little by now. And then we've conquered the Gold Smugglers' Circuit.
Time for a food stop
My stomach is making itself known by now, too. It's time for a food stop. We get a tip from tourism director Andreas Steibl: apparently, the panorama restaurant at Idalp serves excellent Kaiserschmarren.
That settles my choice of meal. I order the Kaiserschmarren, let the caramelized pieces of pancake melt on my tongue, and close my eyes for a moment. I'm a little exhausted, but it was really cool. That makes lunch taste twice as good!
Also of interest:
> All alone in Ischgl before the start of the season
> Snow conditions: When will it snow again?
> Skiing in Ischgl in spring