The Geislergruppe rises steeply behind Seceda. Thanks to Instagram and the like, its rock towers are now famous around the world. Seceda in Val Gardena/Gröden is home to one of the most famous photo spots in the Dolomites. But very few people get any closer. I, however, want to get closer. I want to climb the peaks that rise so impressively behind it. My goal is Kleine Fermeda in the Geislergruppe.
Starting with the obligatory photo
From St. Ullrich, we take the cable car up to Seceda. The sheer rock face rises before me. As soon as we crest the edge, my jaw drops in amazement. First, I look to the right. I see Langkofel, with clouds drifting around its pointed rock towers. Then I let my eyes wander to the other side. There in the distance lies the Geislergruppe.
A large sign with a picture of a camera points us toward the famous photo spot. It's just under a 10-minute walk from the cable car station. The panorama is already amazing from here. It's hard to imagine it could get any more impressive. But it does. We cross the ridge, descend a few meters at the end, and I gaze at the rock walls, the sheer drop of Seceda and the impressive rock spires in the background. Wow. Just wow!
Felix pulls out the camera, and I strike a pose. The scene is familiar. I've seen it several times on my Instagram timeline. I definitely want a photo like that too. I grin excitedly at the camera. I'm honestly a little overwhelmed. This place is something really special.
Climbers only
But the photo spot is only the beginning of the tour. We're actually aiming a little higher. We want to climb Kleine Fermeda in the Geislergruppe. We can already see it in the distance. It's one of those rock towers that look impossible to climb. I gulp inwardly. Then I pull myself together. After all, I'm here to experience nature, not just take photos. So let's go!
The narrow hiking trail runs right along the edge of Seceda. Sightseers carrying camera equipment pass us on their way back. Some have a tripod tucked under one arm. Others are changing the lens on an expensive SLR camera.
That changes at a wooden fence. There's a sign hanging on it that reads: "Climbers only." That's it. Beyond it, we have the trail to ourselves and won't see another person until the descent. It's crazy what a difference a few hundred meters can make.
The first few meters
| Starting point: | Seceda |
| Elevation gain: | 450 m |
| Duration: | 5 hours |
| Difficulty: | II – III UIAA |
| Recommended stop: | Sofie Hütte |
We put on our climbing harnesses. Today we're accompanied by Martin, a mountain guide from St. Ullrich. That reassures me a little, because the wall rising in front of me doesn't look easy. He encourages us, or rather, mostly me. It'll be fine. I'm curious to see how it goes. Then he leads the way. Without hesitating or even pausing to think, he walks right up the wall. I try to memorize his movements. But as soon as it's my turn, it's anything but easy.
I'm nervous. My feet search for purchase. They don't quite trust the tiny footholds. My hands cling on too, with varying degrees of confidence. I force myself to calm down. If I let myself get worked up, I might as well not go any farther. So I make it through the first few vertical meters reasonably successfully. I ask if it gets any steeper. Definitely, comes the answer.
I can't get any farther
But Martin handles it well. He keeps things calm. And with every meter I climb after that, my confidence grows. I make it through the following climbs, which are in the II to III range on the climbing scale, without major difficulties. I'm a little proud of myself that it suddenly feels quite easy. The height is manageable too.
But then comes the chimney. The so-called crux, the hardest part of the climb. Martin leads again. He spreads his legs wide, placing one foot against one side of the chimney and the other against the opposite side. Crazy. Wedged in like that, he continues upward.
When I try it, I can't get any farther. I'm stuck. I don't know where to put my feet. I try to find more handholds. I can't just copy what Martin did. I'm too afraid I'll slip. He finally gets me out of the situation by showing me an alternative route alongside it. There, I manage to keep going. What a relief. The summit isn't far away now, and it would have been a shame to fail here, so close to the goal.
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Summit success and gratitude
The final stretch is easier again. My confidence returns. Then we cover the remaining meters along the ridge to a small summit plateau. We made it. High fives. Catch our breath. Enjoy the view.
Wow! Looking up from below, I never would have thought I could climb one of the Geislerspitzen. And now I'm actually standing up here, letting my gaze wander over Sellastock, Langkofel, Marmolada and Rosengarten. I look toward the Austrian Alps on the other side and enjoy the solitude up here. A sense of awe washes over me. I'm grateful to be standing here. Grateful to see the famous Seceda photo spot from a bird's-eye view. Grateful to be going home with an experience like this.
A toast and a treat
The way back is quicker. We rappel down most sections, losing elevation quickly. That keeps things exciting right to the end. Exciting until we have solid ground under our feet again. But once we do, I breathe a sigh of relief. I made it up and back down safely. We have to toast to that.
The owner of the Sofie-Hütte, where we stop afterward, agrees. Without even asking, he brings us a homemade gin and tonic. We've earned it today, he says. Oh yes, I think to myself. We really have earned it today. That was my first proper climbing trip!