The first few metres are hard work. I’m breathing heavily, even though we haven’t come very far yet. Still, I can feel the unfamiliar movement in my legs. The first ski tour of the season takes us up the edge of the piste on the Kaunertaler Glacier. We duck under snow cannons, make our way past rocks at the edge of the run and, in the end, take the cable car for the final stretch of the climb. After all, it’s already running …
Driving up through a winter wonderland
My eyes are glued to the road, occasionally darting to the treetops on either side. Everything is white and looks thoroughly wintry. We wind our way up, bend after bend, and by the time we reach the Gepatsch reservoir, I remember why the Kaunertaler Glacier Road is one of my favourite roads in Austria. Wisps of mist rise around the tranquil reservoir. We stop and get out. Cold air hits me. I wrap my arms around myself. But cold or no cold, I have to take a photo.
Skins stick better without wax
Further up, in the car park, I run my hand over the base of my ski. As usual, I haven’t followed the well-meaning advice. Unlike the experts recommend, my ski didn’t get a thick layer of protective wax over the summer. But skins stick much better without fresh wax anyway, right? You really can put a positive spin on just about anything. At least the skins do stick without any trouble. A little later, I’m ready to set off. Here we go.
On blame and admissions
For now, I’m motivated. I take the first few steps with a spring in my stride. But the excitement doesn’t last long. After just a few metres, my legs start to complain. What’s going on? It can’t be the equipment. The skins are stuck on tight and performing quite decently. My new ski touring boots are comfortable and light too. Okay, maybe I can’t pass the blame. It’s probably just down to my physical condition. Some things, it seems, you can’t put a positive spin on.
An obstacle course on the way up
My fitness isn’t the only challenge. The snow cannons turn the climb into an obstacle course too. “We can go around them,” I optimistically thought at first. But the strong wind blows the artificial snow in every direction. Icicles form in my hair. Snow gets in over my jacket collar and slowly trickles cold down my back. Yes. The sun is shining above us, yet it feels as though we’re climbing in the harshest weather.
No reason to be in a bad mood
Luckily, none of this dampens our spirits. Even so, I’m not sorry that we take the lift for the final stretch to Karlesjoch (3.108 m), the highest point in the ski area. I stretch out my legs, massage my thighs and then get out my helmet. The gondolas shelter us from the biting wind. Up here, temperatures are in the double digits below zero. Even so, we’re in no hurry to head back down.
A picture-perfect view
The view is incredible. A sea of clouds lies before me. Only the highest surrounding peaks poke through. The summits of the towering mountains are dusted white. The sun bathes the scene in warm light. We climb a little higher, to a bench looking towards Italy. Here, at the highest point of the ski area. Here, on the border between two countries. Here, above the clouds, I forget my cold fingers for a moment. I breathe out. Little clouds form in the air in front of me. It was worth it!