I normally prefer to sit in the passenger seat. I only get behind the wheel of a car on the rarest of occasions. I do have a driver’s license, of course. What I lack is practice. The last time I sat behind the wheel, the car ended up undriveable with engine damage and had to be towed to a garage. So sitting at the helm of a boat and preparing to head out onto the lake in reverse is a special kind of challenge.
No License Required
I stroll through Zell am See, heading for the shore of Lake Zell. After the hike up Schwalbenwand , I want to wind down the day here. Floating on the water. In a boat. Surrounded by mountains. The Kitzsteinhorn is particularly impressive, rising toward the sky at the far end of the lake.
So we head straight for the boat rental place between the casino and the town park. Several electric boats are moored in the harbor. You don’t need a license to drive one, so anyone can do it. Today, I’ll be taking the helm. The man handing over the boat gives me a warning look: “Don’t hit anything!” Okay. Got it. I’m also supposed to keep my distance from the shore, where the water gets much shallower.
We opt for the luxury version. Princess is the name of the turquoise-and-white boat we’ll be taking out on the lake. On deck there’s not only a sun lounger but also a small table. Excellent. The first thing I do is set down the picnic basket I’ve been carrying under my arm. The pineapple, cherries and grapes are perfect for the summery feeling here at Lake Zell.
No Trouble Getting Out of the Berth
“First, back straight out of here,” the boat rental man tells me. Easier said than done. I putter backward in reverse. Eventually I look over at Felix, who, for once, is in the passenger seat: “Do you think I can go forward now?” “Yes, you could have ages ago. Look how far out of the harbor you already are.”
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![]() | Boating on the Zeller See is just one of the water highlights in Zell am See-Kaprun. |
Straight Ahead at Top Speed
Okay. Time to really put my foot down. I move the lever, shift into forward, turn the wheel and feel the acceleration. Well, almost. At a top speed of 7 km/h, I “zoom” across the water.
Wind whips against my face. But it’s not because we’re moving fast; it’s just really stormy. And the boat isn’t immune to it either. Waves make it rock from side to side and back again.
One Steers, One Eats
And while I safely maneuver our little boat over the waves, overtake other boats and steer clear of a large excursion boat, Felix tucks into our picnic basket, enjoys a sip of white wine and finally offers me a glass too.
But alcohol at the helm—is that allowed? My research says the blood alcohol limit on the water (in Germany) is 0,5 per mille. Lake Constance is an exception. Apparently, 0,8 per mille is tolerated there. But don’t worry. I don’t intend to push it that far anyway. 😉
A Leap into Cold Water
I’d rather get my thrills somewhere else than from alcohol. Instead, I take the plunge into the cold water. I’ve already tested the temperature, and it doesn’t feel all that cold. So off with my clothes and into my bikini.
Three, two, one. Headfirst dive. Before I can give any more thought to the fact that I wasn’t exactly warm out here to begin with, I’m already jumping into the water. Phew. A little cooler than I thought. But it feels good. Refreshing.
The Perfect Post-Mountain Plan
After the mountain hike, jumping into the water was just the thing. In general, I think an evening on the water is the perfect way to unwind after a mountain hike. I could happily end every hiking day like this.
And maybe, after my success on the water, I can try getting behind the wheel of a car again too. After all, we didn’t hit anything, we didn’t capsize and the motor is still running. Lucky us.




