At the foot of Mont Blanc lies the unofficial capital of mountain sports: Chamonix. How I discovered and fell in love with this little town in just three days in early June, and, together with Millet Mountain took a tour of the spectacular Mer de Glace glacier and tried my hand at ice climbing.
Mer de Glace
Mer de Glace means nothing other than "sea of ice," and it certainly lives up to its name. The glacier in the Mont Blanc massif is one of the largest glaciers in the Alps. The little red cogwheel train takes you there from Chamonix in around 20 minutes. No wonder this icy landscape is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the area.
Down the ladders
From the cogwheel train's final stop, a wide path leads to the edge of a rocky cliff. Then come the seemingly endless ladders down. There's no room for a fear of heights here. Once at the bottom, we make our way over scree and rocks to the first reaches of the glacier. Small pools of water make the ice slippery right from the start, but otherwise the stones scattered across the surface provide good grip. A few meters farther on, though, crampons are recommended.
It's all about technique
The first few steps with crampons on are awkward and unfamiliar. Then it gets easier. At least until there's a slope to cross. With my ice axe in my left hand for support and all my attention on where I place my feet, I move forward: left foot parallel to the slope, right foot perpendicular. Left foot parallel, right foot perpendicular …
"Imagine there's someone you don't like"
A few meters and three knots in my legs later, we reach an incline. The trick is to keep driving the front points into the ice. Sore legs are already guaranteed. When it finally gets even steeper, it's time to use the ice axe in my hand. "Not so gently! Imagine there's someone you don't like. Now drive that axe into the ice. Just like that!" Excellent, it's in. Rock solid. Perfect for pulling myself up. Less perfect when it comes to getting it out of the ice again.
Burning thighs on the descent
There's no time for a break. What goes up must come down. Like a skier in a downhill tuck, with my weight shifted back, I make my way down the slope step by step until we reach a stream. We have to cross it using a large rock. The sharp crampons clink against the hard stone, making walking feel strange. One jump and a landing on the familiar ice later, we find ourselves facing an icy drop.
Ice climbing on Mer de Glace
As the experienced mountain guide from the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix presses the ice tools into my hands, he gives me a quick rundown of what to do: "Always work from the wrist. You don't need to use much force. Drive the front points of your crampons straight into the ice wall. Just like climbing. Trust me." He ignores my objection that I've never been climbing before: "You can do it anyway."
Trapped on the ice wall
The first two moves feel unfamiliar. Breathe in, breathe out, left hand, right hand, left leg, right leg. So far, so good. Just as I'm getting comfortable with the situation, my left crampon catches on my right pant leg, and I'm stuck. Concentrating hard, I free my leg from its predicament and actually manage to continue upward without help. When I reach the top, I'm exhausted but happy.
A palace of ice and snow
But the tour isn't over yet. Before heading back to the train for the ride to Chamonix in France, we make a detour into an illuminated ice cave. The palace, with its mirror-smooth walls, glows a pale blue. The grotto-like walls are lit up on both sides. In places, pieces of furniture have been carved into the caves. It's a work of art that couldn't be more beautiful. But we're not the only ones who appreciate it: so do the crowds of tourists.